Skip to content

What’s brewing behind the vines at the Griffin Gastropub?

In this month’s Ontario travel column, Bradford West Gwillimbury author Andrew Hind finds delicious food, drink and ‘an almost bohemian passion for music’ at Griffin Gastropub in Bracebridge

In Britain, they say you get a measure of its place from its local pub.

Assuming that’s true, our evening at Griffin Gastropub suggests Bracebridge is a town of lively character and distinct charm with an almost bohemian passion for music.

Occupying a nostalgic vine-shrouded building, Griffin Gastropub is one of Muskoka’s liveliest spots, famed for live music — our waitress took a turn at the microphone, revealing a hauntingly soulful voice — and boasting unique Ontario craft beers on tap.

The building’s history is almost as interesting as the eclectic beer selection.

For most of its existence, the building was the office of Toronto-born lawyer Russell Maxwell “R.M.” Best, who had the handsome two-storey building built in 1933. Law offices were located on the main floor, while an apartment for his associates was located above.

After Best retired in 1980 at the end of an illustrious career, the building became the Griffin Pub in 1998. A decade later, childhood friends Curt Dunlop and Jed Corbeil purchased the business.

“It all just sort of happened,” said Corbeil, thoughtfully. “A buddy told us it was for sale. The building was really cool, and both Curt and I love music and entertaining, so we thought maybe we should run a pub. Neither of us had any expertise in the field, but we figured we would stick our neck out a bit and either sink or swim.”

Though Corbeil admits they barely treaded water for the first few years, the pair were driven by a determination to create a unique identity for the pub. It was all about finding a niche: live music, good beers, and well-made food using the best local ingredients.

A decade on, the tough times of a new business finding its feet long in the past, the Griffin Gastropub is now a thriving and vibrant part of Bracebridge’s cultural scene.

Griffin Pub proudly embraces craft beers: You won’t find any corporate brews here, and patrons wouldn’t have it any other way.

The 12 draughts on tap are constantly rotating, featuring a broad selection from great craft breweries and beers made in-house.

The pub is as proud of its food as it is of its beers.

A standout among the appetizers is the Griffin Poutine, handmade fries drizzled with stout and wine gravy and mozzarella cheese.

The signature main is the bison burger, made with an Ontario bison patty (surprisingly tasty despite its leanness), topped with tomatoes, lettuce, pickles, and garlic aioli, and complemented either by salad or house fries.

Live music is performed Thursday through Saturday, starting at 8 p.m. Talented musicians themselves, Corbeil and Dunlop perform every Thursday.

Get there early; the pub is intimate inside, so it’s best to come at least half hour before hand.

And it’s always full with a surprisingly diverse group of patrons. In one corner, a silver-haired and very-much-in-love couple carry on as if they were on a first date, eyes only for each other. Not far away, a much younger university-aged couple was definitely on a first date — all blushing and shyness, clearly very much into each other. Saddled up to the bar were a group of men, young and old, sampling craft beers from the taps. Introductions made, they were soon laughing like old friends. The Griffin clearly appeals to people of all walks.

And why not? The pub oozes character. Blending good food, great company, Ontario’s best craft beers and friendly hospitality into one memorable package, the Griffin is the perfect place to while away a chilly winter evening.